The Autumn 2025 edition of Haute Couture Week in Paris is shaping up to be a season of transition, marked by major debuts, departures, and the evolving identities of some of fashion’s most prestigious houses.
With Jonathan Anderson’s recent appointment at Dior, the carousel of creative director changes that has defined recent seasons is beginning to settle — signaling a moment of recalibration for the industry. This calmer rhythm sets the stage for a quieter, more introspective couture week.
Running from July 7 to 10, the official calendar — released by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) — lists 27 runway shows over four days. The week will open with a show by Schiaparelli at 10 a.m. (CEST) on July 7 and conclude with a closing presentation from Swiss label Germanier on July 10.
Noteworthy Debuts
Two of the most anticipated debuts are:
- Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela (July 9)
- Michael Rider at Celine (July 6, off-calendar)
Rider, formerly the creative director at Polo Ralph Lauren, succeeds Hedi Slimane, who exited Celine in October 2024. Rider’s debut is expected to mark a distinct shift in the brand’s aesthetic. Meanwhile, Martens, known for his innovation at Y/Project and Diesel, will aim to remain “true to our creative core,” according to a statement from Maison Margiela earlier this year.
Significant Departures
July 9 will also mark Demna’s final couture collection for Balenciaga, ending an era defined by conceptual maximalism and cultural commentary. His successor, Pierpaolo Piccioli — formerly of Valentino — will take over the storied house.
At Chanel, this season will be the final collection by the in-house studio team, ahead of Matthieu Blazy’s highly anticipated debut in October.
Who’s In, Who’s Out
Returning to the official calendar are:
- Iris van Herpen
- Robert Wun
- ArdAzAei
However, some prominent names are taking a pause:
- Dior and Jean Paul Gaultier are on hiatus, awaiting new creative leads Jonathan Anderson and Duran Lantink, respectively.
- Valentino, now under Alessandro Michele, is shifting its strategy and will present just one couture show per year.
- Miss Sohee and Alexis Mabille are also absent from this season’s lineup.
As the dust settles from a period of flux, Haute Couture Week Autumn 2025 looks to be a bridge between eras — honoring final chapters while ushering in fresh visions.
